The goat's demeanor said it all. His eyes had a terrified look as he nervously soiled the grass below his shaky legs. He had the right to be scared shitless. He was the unfortunate guest for an upcoming feast to celebrate the Hindu festival called Dashain. As part of the festival, animal sacrifices are common and I've heard from locals that hundreds of thousands of goats, sheep and water buffalo will meet their demise this holiday season in Nepal.
Some people, especially Westerners, have veered away from what they see as barbaric acts. However, if the ritual is done correctly, the animal is beheaded with one slice, killing it instantly. Plus, for many Nepalese families it is the only time of the year they eat meat, so every part of the sacrificed animal is used. In Pokhara, a lakeside town with picturesque mountains in the background, I was invited to watch a few of the sacrifices. Afterward they fed me some Nepali delights, which included goat tongue and congealed blood that resembled black scrabbled eggs.
The sacrifices, which re-enact the slaying of an evil demon by the Hindu Goddess Durga, are quite interesting. It's a family affair as adults and children huddle around the animal. Once the animal is sacrificed, men rush in to secure the spurting blood into a metal bowl as well as wash out the throat. Boiling water is then poured onto the body, which loosens up the fur. It took roughly 20 minutes for the goat to be stripped of fur and ready to be butchered.
Thus far, I've spent about a week in Pokhara. The town is cheap and has a relaxing vibe, a complete contrast from Kathmandu. During my time here I rented a moped and drove to a variety of sights out of walking distance. One day I powered the small-engine scooter up to the scenic point Sarangkot, which overlooks the Annapurna Mountain Range. One of the mountains, Machhapuchhre or more appropriately nicknamed Fishtail Mountain, dominates the skyline where mountains ranging between 23,000 to 26,000 feet can also be seen. At the top of Sarangkot is a small army fort where the best views can be had but first you have to hike up hundreds of steep steps to get there.
The other popular lookout point is the World Peace Pagoda. One of 80 across the globe, the white pagoda was built on top of a hill above the lake and town as a symbol for world peace. (A nice concept but very unlikely to happen.) Nonetheless, the view from here is perhaps the best in the land. The lake and the roads strewn with hotels can be seen as well as the Annapurna range. Another sight I ventured to was the Bat Cave. No superhero in tights here, just a flock of the hairy-winged creatures hanging upside down and occasionally swooping down in front of you.
Another day I rented a row boat and a local fishing rod made from a bamboo stick. I paddled to the other side of the lake, placed bread on the hook and caught nothing but nibbles from minnows. It was still a tranquil setting to down a brew and listen to the iPod. I then rowed to a Hindu temple on an island in the lake. Crowds of Hindus with red "Tika" marks on their foreheads were paying their respects to the temple during the festival.
At night, Pokhara still thrives but after 11 p.m. it shuts down. The bars are the standard touristy places, except for the so-called dance clubs. Make no mistake, dancing does occur in these venues, but not by you. Basically you sit and watch dancers perform Nepali and Indian Bollywood numbers. If you're lucky, a woman dressed in some sort of belly-dancer outfit will dance on the stage alone; the closest thing you'll get to a strip club over here.
I'm currently preparing to head back to Kathmandu and catch a flight to Delhi. I expect more surprises from this part of Asia very soon.
The sacrifices, which re-enact the slaying of an evil demon by the Hindu Goddess Durga, are quite interesting. It's a family affair as adults and children huddle around the animal. Once the animal is sacrificed, men rush in to secure the spurting blood into a metal bowl as well as wash out the throat. Boiling water is then poured onto the body, which loosens up the fur. It took roughly 20 minutes for the goat to be stripped of fur and ready to be butchered.
Thus far, I've spent about a week in Pokhara. The town is cheap and has a relaxing vibe, a complete contrast from Kathmandu. During my time here I rented a moped and drove to a variety of sights out of walking distance. One day I powered the small-engine scooter up to the scenic point Sarangkot, which overlooks the Annapurna Mountain Range. One of the mountains, Machhapuchhre or more appropriately nicknamed Fishtail Mountain, dominates the skyline where mountains ranging between 23,000 to 26,000 feet can also be seen. At the top of Sarangkot is a small army fort where the best views can be had but first you have to hike up hundreds of steep steps to get there.
The other popular lookout point is the World Peace Pagoda. One of 80 across the globe, the white pagoda was built on top of a hill above the lake and town as a symbol for world peace. (A nice concept but very unlikely to happen.) Nonetheless, the view from here is perhaps the best in the land. The lake and the roads strewn with hotels can be seen as well as the Annapurna range. Another sight I ventured to was the Bat Cave. No superhero in tights here, just a flock of the hairy-winged creatures hanging upside down and occasionally swooping down in front of you.
Another day I rented a row boat and a local fishing rod made from a bamboo stick. I paddled to the other side of the lake, placed bread on the hook and caught nothing but nibbles from minnows. It was still a tranquil setting to down a brew and listen to the iPod. I then rowed to a Hindu temple on an island in the lake. Crowds of Hindus with red "Tika" marks on their foreheads were paying their respects to the temple during the festival.
At night, Pokhara still thrives but after 11 p.m. it shuts down. The bars are the standard touristy places, except for the so-called dance clubs. Make no mistake, dancing does occur in these venues, but not by you. Basically you sit and watch dancers perform Nepali and Indian Bollywood numbers. If you're lucky, a woman dressed in some sort of belly-dancer outfit will dance on the stage alone; the closest thing you'll get to a strip club over here.
I'm currently preparing to head back to Kathmandu and catch a flight to Delhi. I expect more surprises from this part of Asia very soon.
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