Thursday, September 30, 2010

Nepal: days 4-5

Woke up at 5 a.m. to only wait six hours at the Kathmandu airport when they finally announced that all flights to Lukla - the entry point to the Everest region - were cancelled. Apparently there was too much fog for any airplane to land at the one-of-a-kind airport. The next day I took the 45-minute picturesque flight in a tiny airplane, sitting right behind the pilots. I was able to see the hair-raising landing over their shoulders. The airstrip is short and abruptly ends into the side of a mountain. If the brakes went out I'm sure we'd be a blurp on the news about a plane crash with no survivors.

Once out of the aircraft and bags in tow, lines of Nepali porters, or sherpas, waited for me outside a chain-linked fence for my business. Since I'm trying to prove my manhood I'm choosing to haul my own baggage, and not just my mental issues. Hopefully I'll make it after days of strenuous hiking to the 17,600-foot Everest Base Camp.

The first day of hiking seemed a breeze. The scenery was remarkable, as expected, and I ended up as the lone hiker staying at a lodge in Monjo. The next day brought me back to reality. The three-hour hike was mainly uphill, crossing steep rocky steps and high suspension bridges over rapids. I decided to stop at one of the major thoroughways, Namache Bazar, located at more than 11,000 feet. It was probably for the best since I could hardly catch my breath at times during the hike, partly due to actively dodging Yak poo on the trail.

At Namache, I took a room for 200 rupees, or about $3. The room was basic with no toilet but the windows overlooked the village, which clings from the side of a mountain. I could even view a waterfall cascading roughly 2,000 feet from another mountain.

The village may be touristy but traditional life goes on. Sherpas transport goods in and out along the trail, locals tend to spinach crops and livestock. As for the children, who are too young for school, amuse themselves by running about outside. No video game generation here. I even saw three kids riding the same stick down the trail and having the time of their lives. I assume they were imitating riding a donkey or something. Let's see the chubby, couch potato youth of the U.S. enjoy simple outdoor surroundings like these kids.

I've picked up random supplies here, including a sleeping bag rental. I'm ready to move on. Not sure where the next internet access will be. The villages along the trail try to cater to hikers but they can still be primitive. Namache, however, is a bustling village and even has a sports bar playing football on TV. Too bad it's English football, though.

Monday, September 27, 2010

Nepal: days 1-3

I regretted why I didn't take out travel insurance once the tax driver hit the streets of Kathmandu. The streets were inundated with pot holes, cars, people and the occasional cow. Yes, a cow. Over here, a cow is a sacred animal not a T-bone steak. I read somewhere that if you killed a cow it'll land you 15 years in prison - the same punishment as killing a person.

The condition of the streets made Iraqi streets seem as safe as ones found in sleepy Nebraska towns. The 20-minute ride to my hotel in a rickety Toyota van was the equivalent of a roller coaster ride that has failed multiple safety inspections. Cars sharply turned within inches of moving objects. There are no sidewalks and the roads can barely fit two cars side by side. The only way that cars avoid crashing into things is the excessive use of their horns.

When you're out walking, it's easily to get annoyed by passing cars blaring their horns as their side mirrors almost scathe you. To counter the dangerous roads and not to mention the filth and smog that covers the city, (note: Kathmandu is one of the dirtiest cities in the world) hotels are a bargain. You'll likely to spend $5 for a room with a bathroom.

As for the local food, I was addicted to "mo-mos," a dumpling filled with yak meat. You can get 10 dumplings for 30 rupees, or about 50 cents. However, when you eat the local food there are repercussions. It seemed whatever I ate or drank went through me in minutes. I recall at least 10 potty dances to the toilet in one day.

But with any trip to a third world country, mudbutt is inevitable. As for the nightlife, there are plenty of touristy bars with touristy prices. Perhaps, the best part of the city was Dunbar Square, a historic Hindu site filled with palaces and the like. Here, there are many photo opportunities.